This year’s New York fashion week was filled with lots of eccentricity, geometric shapes, and flattering color palettes. However, what really caught my attention were the so-called trends for spring 2015. American fashion designer Chromat had models sport cornrows and the iconic fashion house DKNY had models strut their stuff with “slicked down tendrils,” commonly known as gelled down baby hairs, down the catwalk. Each designer’s choice in styles was praised by fashion royalty as being “chic” and “epic.” But what I find ironic is that these same trends that are a staple among many black women are often referred to as “ghetto” fashion statements. Cultural aspects of black America that once held negative connotations are being transformed into fashion trends and are praised and profited from.
Now, my issue isn’t with the borrowing of elements of style which originated from the heart of the Black community. Fashion is ultimately an aspect of pop culture that is continually recycled and presented in a manner to appear fresh and innovative.
However, what I do find difficult to digest is the complete change in disposition when a particular style appears on a black woman as opposed to a white woman. For instance, in Katy Perry’s most recent video for “This Is How We Do” she sports cornrows, gelled down baby hairs, and acrylic nails in a few scenes. Perry received praise from Rolling Stone as being “hyper-stylized” and by Billboard for championing “vintage fashion.” Yet, when these same cultural markers appear on black women they are referred to as “ratchet” or “ghetto.”
Furthermore, the lack of cultural appropriation is frustrating. Black women are not commonly credited for their influence over the fashion world. Last month, in its roundup of fall hair trends, the L.A. Times published an article about the growing popularity of cornrows and didn’t credit a single Black woman for the trend. Instead, the author, Ingrid Schmidt cited 70’s film star and model Bo Derek as pioneering the hairstyle.
To make matters even worse, aspects of Black culture are often exploited in a manner which turns flattery into an outright insult. On Sept. 22, VICE Magazine published an editorial piece titled “Nasty Nails” featuring two white women eating watermelon with obscenely long nails. An image such as this is a prime example of how cultural aspects of black America are mocked and used to either gain attention or profit.
In January, Rick Owens had male models wear du-rags on the runway during Paris Fashion Week. Several publications like GQ credited the inclusion of these head accessories on the runway to Hip-Hop’s influence. However, it made me rather uncomfortable to see du-rags being fashioned in a manner that’s acceptable for everyday wear. The sole purpose of a du-rag is for grooming within the household. It’s practical for maintaining wavy or corn-rowed hairstyles. It shouldn’t be deemed an accessory especially at the price of $270, purely for the luxury designer name.
Ultimately, fashion is a form of expression. It’s imperative that we as consumers remain conscious of the messages being displayed on the runway and on our bodies because they are inherent to the culture. As consumers, we are literally walking billboards. So, whatever your sense of fashion may be take pride in that but also consider the statement that you’re making.
Kai Miller can be reached at kai.miller@spartans.ut.edu