Mangroves sits nestled in a quiet corner of typically noisy South Howard, neighboring popular drinking destinations like The Drynk, Cheap and MacDinton’s. It is not, however, the same sort of destination as the rest of the SoHo bar district.
Upon entering the building, it is easy to tell Mangroves strives to be a step above casual dining. Soft lighting takes many forms along the ceiling, ranging from modern-art-looking chandeliers to hanging pendant lights encased in cylindrical shades. Black and white serve as the main color palette, with both colors accenting the tables in layers of cloth.
The servers, dressed in black, stroll quietly through the halls, and soft, easy-listening music fills the otherwise quiet dining rooms. Two floors divide the seating arrangements with a bar available on both floors.Candles adorn the tables, one sitting on the surface, and another floating amongst a white flower in tall vases. Someone with a knack for artistic vision clearly had a hand in designing the décor.
The menu has all the offerings of an impressive first date. The appetizers are as numerous as the entrées, and the dishes are varied, with no central theme other than items that sound extremely palatable. Coconut and macadamia crusted Mahi Mahi is offered right along with Southwest-style spicy shrimp, and a traditional New York Strip.
The Truffled Beef Tartar is a starter not found on many menus in Tampa. It is served on five mini-toasts with a creamy spread and topped with fresh basil. Drizzled in a pinot noir reduction, it has an excellent flavor, and the crunch of the toast balances the soft, tender texture of the raw beef. Meat that is perfectly rare does, however, have a very strong flavor to it, one that permeates the entire mouth up to the nose. It is a unique experience that is not like sushi, so the less adventurous may want to steer clear.
The only vegetarian option for an entrée on the menu, the Mediterranean Pasta is abounding with flavor. The spinach noodles tossed in Alfredo sauce are the perfect base for the sundried tomatoes, kalamata olives, fresh spinach and small button mushrooms that are mixed in with them. Topped with giant slices of portobello mushrooms, the dish is a huge portion, and hearty enough to make up for the lack of meat. It is an excellent offering for those that are not carnivorous.
For dessert, Mangroves is limited, with only three items on the menu. The bread pudding is tasty, and served in a molded cube, as opposed to the traditional soupy consistency and appearance. Drizzled with caramel sauce and stuffed with macadamia nuts throughout, it is quite delicious, but only for a few bites. After a full meal, it is difficult to consume the entire portion.
All portions at Mangroves are very, very large. The service is quiet and unassuming, and of a moderate speed. For a quiet evening on the town, it is the perfect destination.
Moriah Parrish can be reached at mparrish@spartans.ut.edu.