Flames shot high towards the ceiling,
men and women were barking out orders,
and plates are transferred with all due haste
from the window, to trays, to tables, to
happy guests.
It was Friday night at Bella’s Italian
Café and the open kitchen was visibly
doing what they do best, to the delight of
the populated dining room.
A hostess immediately sat me and very
soon I was greeted by the boisterous and
very friendly Sage, a server who clearly
knows her restaurant.
She guided me through the menu,
naming favorites and suggesting specials.
I decided on an Insalata Caprese to start
and Pear Sachet for my entrée.
While waiting on my appetizer, I was
entertained by the kitchen and bar staff.
The bar, like the open kitchen, is a part
of the dining room, and both have a touch
of the Old World and New, a central theme
at Bella’s.
With red lights looming from the
ceiling in the bar area, and a classic era
ornate lion mural gracing the wall behind
the rows of liquor, the section was intimate
and romantic.
A word burning stove poured smoke
and flames from the kitchen, while modern
stainless steel protected the back walls
from common mishaps.
The dining room combined a stuccolike
wall texture with blown-glass lamp
shades over the tables and quaint paintings
that were somehow all vaguely reminiscent
of Italian landscapes and customs.
It was as if a 21st century designer had
re-vamped a favorite dive in some forgotten
village in Italy; a beautiful thing.
Apparently, people agreed with me,
because even though I overheard one guest
comment, “This place is usually hopping
on a Friday night.
I wonder why it’s so
dead,” the atmosphere was energetic,
with voices raised over the music playing
audibly in the background.
The Insalata Caprese arrived and was
basically everything a good caprese salad
should be: blood red tomatoes, soft, fresh
mozzarella, basil leaves so newly picked
they had a satisfying crisp, and a perfect
Balsamic vinaigrette to complement.
It was a light start and refreshing to say
the least.
My only suggestion might be to add
something crunchy to the mix, such as pine
nuts or bruschetta as I have seen it served
in other places, because by the last bite, it
all seems a bit mushy.
The Pear Sachet, on the other hand, was
something to marvel at.
As the name promises, the pasta
was indeed in the shape of small purses
gathered at the top.
They were filled with robiola, ricotta
and parmesan cheeses, and of course,
pears.
Served drizzled with a creamy saffron
sauce and sweet peas, they were one of the
most interesting combination of flavors I
have ever tried.
The peas and sauce made an impression
first, tasting like a good homemade dish.
Next the cheeses could be tasted,
blending well with the sauce, and finally
the pears left the last flavor on the palate, The Dish
as if they were intended for dessert.
Everything mixed well and was
absolutely delicious.
For a true dessert, though, I had spotted
a raspberry crème brulée and simply had
to try it.
It was the epitome of the famous dessert:
well done and brittle on top while smooth
and custard-like on the bottom.
The bonus: it had fresh raspberries
mixed in with the crème, and was overall
delightful.
I would highly recommend Bella’s
for a date night or to simply curb serious
hunger.
I know I left feeling as though I could
roll to my car.
Moriah Parrish can be reached at mparrish@spartans.ut.edu.